On a sweltering night in the heart of Paris, a sense of nervous expectation surrounds Le Grand Rex, the city's oldest cinema. Cigarette smoke swirls along the boulevard outside the theatre as hordes of Raindogs queue before entering the vaudeville world of Tom Waits. That the venue is running well over an hour late only adds to the sense of expectation. By the time the lights dip in the art deco cinema and the dishevelled figure of Waits shuffles on to the darkened stage, the crowd are on the verge of expl
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