Guest
Ok, so I was not happy with this video, not really. Im still finding the best optimally best way to do these and a tutorial always should be clear, concise and best practice. I've done 3 or 4 now and it comes across as none, I was going to delete it. then I thought I have already completed the customer's build, im, not in a position to record another and i think maybe some “might“ find it useful even if unscripted rich is off on a few points / the memory on the camera ran out at the end. Some people maybe dont have a clue where to start with this gun and maybe this helps get you on the right path. I know you gotta have thick skin for the internet which i do not have but f%&k it, here it is, enjoy, or don't enjoy. As usual im still interested in comments especially if this at all helped you. To clarify one point, the rail will come off as one unit, there's absolutely no need to undo ANY small Allen bolts from the outside of the rail. Please make sure the gun is fixed in place and has little or no movement before hitting with a tool and as i say in the video just before it cuts at the end, if the heat does not break the loctite then go back to heat! it took 3 more heat attempts before the loctite finally gave and i was able to conscrew the outer barrel nut enough to twist off the rail. i then had to put the nuts and rail into a vice to separate the first locking ring with the out barrel nut. again more heat. using the same tool and a pin punch as a door stop to stop it from rotating. i think that covers the points i wasn't happy with / low audio on video, and obviously that it turned into something uncomfortable to do let alone watch after the memory ran out. i don't wanna put people off they are fantastic out of the box, but if you are at all not sure then please take the mk18 gbbr to a tm specialist or a local tech you trust. it doesn't have to be us, but make sure they are clear about the work involved.
